Sadly, this island,
the most popular stop in Indonesia, was the scene of several horrific
bombings in October 2002. Given that the bombings may be linked
to terrorist groups, we can't recommend anyone visit Bali at this
time.
It's especially sad to see terrorism reach Bali because the island's
friendly people, Hindu culture, rhythmic and flowing dances, volcanoes,
sculptured rice paddies, beautiful jungle and mountain scenery and
spectacular beaches -- combined with a wide array of accommodations
-- make it one of the most fascinating places you'll find anywhere
in the world. It's a magical place -- despite the ever-expanding,
crowded and commercialized tourist spots on the southern coast.
When it's safe again, the best
way to see the "real" Bali is to head inland, past rice
terraces and across the lush countryside. The island isn't that
big, so just about any of the resorts can be used as a base to explore
the island's sights. The adventurous should rent a car, while others
should hire a car and driver (it doesn't cost that much more). Traffic
is heavy on the island's main roads, which are narrow. Many budget
travelers like to rent motorcycles, but accidents are so common
that most insurers won't cover motorcycles without special provisions.
You're better off renting bicycles and sticking to the back roads,
which are quiet once you get north of Denpasar, and provide you
with a glimpse of the real Bali.
Once you're away from the crowds
of tourists, you'll have the best chance of encountering one of
the island's many festivals, colorful weddings or ceremonial cremations.
Much of Bali's charm is serendipitous, and many of its interesting
sites and villages are somewhat off the beaten path, so a flexible,
spontaneous attitude if necessary if you want to get the most out
of your visit.
Religion governs every aspect
of Balinese life, and each village has at least three temples where
rituals and festivals take place (there are some 20,000 temples
in Bali). Music, dance and drama are part of those rituals, and
each village has its own troupe of dancers who perform for the spiritual
well-being of the village. One of the most memorable dance performances
you can witness is a topeng (mask) dance, during which a performer
on a simple stage uses a variety of masks to transform himself into
a variety of characters -- from a delicate, graceful girl to an
angry, frightful monster. Magic!
Tourist offices and hotels can
often provide information about temple festivals or ceremonies during
a particular day or week. Other good sources of information are
the Bali Echo, the best English-language magazine on the island;
the Bali Post, which has a daily calendar of activities; and the
Jakarta Post, the national English daily newspaper, which publishes
a calendar of Bali activities and special events.
It's also possible to watch dance
performances in a hotel after a sumptuous dinner buffet. It's pricey,
but well worth a splurge. And for the true aficionado, there are
music and dance schools in the village of Peliatan, near Ubud. Many
Westerners and Japanese live in Peliatan long-term to study Balinese
music and dance, but the Yayasan Polos Seni (Foundation for Pure
Art) also offers short-term music and dance lessons at reasonable
prices. You'll also learn how to wear sarongs the Balinese way.
Bali is famous for its handicrafts,
too -- its own as well as those it draws from all over Indonesia
(what is passed off as Balinese is not always made on the island).
Most of the Balinese handicraft production is focused in the Ubud
area and the larger Gianyar region in the south. Each village specializes
in a different craft -- Celuk in gold and silvercraft, Batuan in
miniature paintings and Pengosekan in larger, more boldly colored
paintings of traditional village life. You'll find beautiful Balinese
temple umbrellas near Taman Ayun in Megwi, fascinating and sometimes
surreal wood carvings in Tegalalang, masks and other wooden decorative
items in Mas, stone carvings in Batubulan and handmade quilts near
Kedewatan.
Most of these villages are on
the way to Ubud from Denpasar. But be aware that the roadside tourist
shops are overpriced -- if you get off the main road and head for
the smaller workshops and compounds where you'll pay less and get
a chance to meet the artisans. If you want to see a wide range of
crafts in a very different atmosphere, plunge into the Pasar Seni
(Art Market) in Sukawati, where you can bargain away and get some
of the best deals on the island. It's a traditional market, with
small stalls and very narrow aisles -- not for the claustrophobic!
In addition to its cultural attractions,
the island offers good diving and snorkeling (visibility in excess
of 100 ft/35 m) at Tulamben (a wrecked World War II cargo ship lies
just offshore), the port of Padangbai (variety of fish and a 130-ft/40-m
wall) and the remote Menjangan Island (some of the best diving in
Bali). It's also one of the top surfing spots in the world. While
Kuta offers some big waves and a beautiful beach, ask around Kuta
for a guide to the more private beaches, where you won't be bothered
by the touts. A number of white-water rafting tours have been set
up lately in the Ubud area and farther east: Ask in Kuta tour agencies
or the Ubud tourist office on the main road for info. Some ecotourist
sites are also being developed in the south. Bali lies 600 mi/965
km east of Jakarta. |
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Sanur
Most shops are located along Jl. Danau Tamblingan and in the Sanur
Art Market (Pasar Seni). Both local handicraft, and export
quality fashion and homeware outlets, cater to both the residential
and touristic market. Uluwatu Balinese Lace is
a favorite for great quality, lace fashion where "Home Lingerie
is at 'better-than-home' prices! For the Sanur Beach market go to
the beach-end of Jl. Danau Toba.
Nusa Dua
Galeria Nusa Dua offers the whole range of Balinese
goods in one complex, plus all the international brands and it's
free from the hassle of street vendors. Around the perimeter of
Nusa Dua, you can find a number of small shops selling sarongs and
souvenirs.
Ubud
Renowned for Artists and Painting, Ubud is the place to go if you
want to buy that special picture or two. The first recommendation
to those of you looking to purchase a work of art, is a visit to
one or all of the three museums to learn all you can about styles
(See Arts & Artists Chapter), then buy at one
of the numerous Gallery/Art shops, Genta Fine Art Gallery
in nearby Lodtunduh is recomended. Shops stretch out along Jl. Raya
Ubud and also along Monkey Forest Rd. The village atmosphere of
Ubud makes it one of the more relaxed places to shop, and you can
find just as much variety here as you can in Kuta.
Denpasar
Bali's Capital Jl. Gajah Mada has many handicraft and souvenir shops
that stock similar items as found elsewhere on the island and a
few curious Chinese medicine shops too. An offshoot of Jl. Gajah
Mada is Jl. Sulawesi, which stocks a wide range of textiles. Denpasar
has a number of good department stores like Matahari
and Bali Mal - Ramayana, for air
- conditioned shopping.
Markets
Kuta
Poppies Lane I & II - The most famous lanes
in Bali, consisting of small shops selling fashion, souvenirs, shoes,
etc. Market stalls line both sides of Poppies I and II. Here bargaining
is an absolute must!
Ubud Area
Pasar Seni Sukawati (Art Market) - Jl. Raya Sukawati
- Gianyar. Crammed into a large two-storey building, the souk-like
maze of small, packed stalls is sure to reward the curious shopper
with endless discoveries of traditional fabrics, basketware, clothing,
umbrellas and carvings.
Ubud Art Market - Jl. Raya Ubud. This is the place
to buy Bali's best aromatherapy oils and incense, made from locally
sourced plants, herbs and flowers, alongside carvings, paintings
and textiles.
Sanur
Sanur Art Market - Jl. Danau Tamblingan. Offering
a wide selection of woodcarvings, paintings and other handicrafts
from almost every corner of Bali.
Denpasar
Badung Market - Jl. Gajah Mada. Selling everything from
fruit and meat to clothes and textiles, Pasar Badung
is a market that provides for the locals' needs. This is definitely
the place for bottom-line bargains.
Kumbasari Market - Jl. Gajah Mada. A range of handicrafts,
gold work and fine fabrics can be found.
Bird Market - Jl. Veteran. Sells an assortment
of beautiful birds and other animals, which will surely leave you
both impressed and depressed.
To buy goods right from the source we recommend the following
places:
Antiques : Batubulan to Batuan Road
Art : Ubud and surrounding areas of Campuhan, Penestanan,
Pengosekan, Peliatan
Ceramics : Campuhan, Kapal, Tabanan
Cigars : Cigar and Cigars Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Ubud,
Sanur
Clothes & Fashion : Mambo, Milo's, Rascals, Kahuna
Surf Kids, Mama & Leon, Uluwatu Lace
Furniture : Kerobokan, Seminyak, Jimbaran, Ubud, Vinoti
Living
Jewellery : Ubud, Celuk, Denpasar, Jl. Sulawesi
Masks Singapadu, Batuan, Mas
Music : Cassettes and CD's in Bali are cheaper
than at home. most music stores are located in Kuta/ Legian
Puppets : Klungkung, Sukawati, Gianyar, Peliatan
Stone Carving : Batubulan
Textiles : Sidemen, Kampunggelgel & Klungkung
Market, Batuan, Negara, Tampaksiring - for ikat weaving, Tenganan
- for gerinsing, Milo's - for silk, Asia style
Wood Carving : Mas, Kemenuh - Buruan, Tegallalang,
Pujung, Nyuhkuning
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